it's getting critical.
thoughts on constructive criticism + reads & vibes for your weekend.
Happy Black History Month to those who solely observe February as such.
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As for me & my house though: It’s 365 Black around here. All Black all the time.
Let’s jump in.
thoughts at large.
This week, since we are kicking off Black History Month, I wanted to talk about something I think we need to get better at as a community. That thing is criticism.
To start, I want to make sure we have a clear definition of what criticism is, and what it isn’t.
crit·i·cism: 1) the analysis and judgment of the merits and faults of a literary or artistic work. 2) the expression of disapproval of someone or something based on perceived faults or mistakes.
Nowhere in that definition is the word “hate” or “disrespect.” Got it? Okay cool. Let’s move forward.
As a community, we don’t seem to know how to handle giving or receiving criticism, and to be honest, that’s a problem. We need it. When it’s constructive, criticism is a necessary tool for growth. Unfortunately, anything that can be perceived as remotely negative is often viewed as hate, when in actuality, it could just be an honest analysis of what should be improved.
This week, The Cut ran an article about Kerby Jean-Raymond, who is a Haitian-American fashion designer. He founded the brand Pyer Moss (it’s pronounced like Pierre) in 2013. The story, which was written by Tahirah Hariston, a Black woman, raised the following statement & question: Kerby Jean-Raymond was one of fashion’s most celebrated young designers. Then what happened?
The article explains how Jean-Raymond rose to fame in 2016 after making a splash by incorporating references to Black Lives Matter into his runway show. He didn’t follow the traditional fashion rules. He created provocative moments - like hosting a couture show at Madam CJ Walker’s New York mansion for Paris Fashion Week - which earned him a lot of attention from major publications and fashion houses. One of the issues the article calls out, however, is that the pieces that were presented in the shows rarely wound up being fully produced or brought to market. To many, the brand became more of a spectacle and had less of a tangible impact. There were more political statements than statement pieces.
“Among the fashion insiders who had cheered his rise, there has been a growing feeling that he has wasted an opportunity to build something important.”
The article also features anonymous quotes from alleged former employees of Pyer Moss, who accuse the founder of erratic behavior, exclusionary practices that made the workplace contentious, and misappropriation of funds. *heavy negro spiritual sigh*
The response was swift - with many people coming to Jean-Raymond’s defense, some calling the profile a “hit job.” I saw comments that asked “why can’t we give a Black man grace/space to mess up? White designers do it all the time and no one says anything about it”
To that I say - that’s a lie. And even if it wasn’t, is that the level at which we want to live? Is white mediocrity the standard? I mean honestly?
There are people whose whole careers are built around observing art of all kinds, providing analysis and feedback along the way. The real problem I think we need to address is a mindset of tokenism that makes us believe that if we say something less than positive about a peer in the limelight, they’ll lose their position and we’ll lose our only shot at representation in that space. It’s not true.
We’ve taken the “keep family business in the house” rule a little too far. There are literally NO spaces that we can keep to ourselves - our internet homes have no walls, so we’re having open conversations every single day. With that in mind, if we’re withholding thoughtful criticism for fear that we’ll embarrass ourselves in front of “others,” we’re doing ourselves more harm than good.
I will also say, that there were a lot of things wrong with the article. The anonymity of the sources makes it more salacious than critical. Those parts should have been left out if they couldn’t be attributed - because without a name, it’s messy. Dramatic for no reason.
But two things can be true at once.
If we want to be seen as equal, why wouldn’t we expect to receive some sort of feedback? If we’re consistently fighting for space and a voice at the table, can we be upset at what comes with it?
What do you think? Are we too critical, or not critical enough? If you’re reading this in your inbox, hit reply. If you’re reading online:
reads & vibes.
Here are a few articles you should check out this weekend.
You People’s Real Romance Is With Streetwear by Cam Wolf, via GQ (the grail sneakers were paid actors in this film, for sure.)
Kenya Barris Defends His Brand of Comedy: ‘Have You Ever Looked at the Mona Lisa?’ - by Hanna Phifer via Rolling Stone (yes he compared his work to the Mona Lisa)
Iddris Sandu, the brains behind Nipsey Hussle’s interactive Marathon Clothing smart Store, just closed a $10 million seed round for his company Spatial Labs, a Web3 infrastructure & hardware company. Jay-Z’s Marcy Venture Partners participated. (I’m super impressed by this young Black man. Check out his interview on The Angie Martinez Show back in 2019 where he discussed advancements in tech + hip hop)
The Internet Loves an Extremophile by Helen Lewis via The Atlantic (on influencer culture, and the desire to see creators hop from one enthusiasm to the next.)
How the Only All-Black Team in College Swimming Became the Sport's Hottest Ticket - by Robert Sanchez via SI (I love this story about Howard’s swim team.)
PSA: Tyler Perry’s best film, “Daddy’s Little Girls”, is now available on Netflix. You’re welcome.
Season two of “Harlem” starring Megan Good, Tyler Lepley & Grace Byers is now available to stream on Prime Video. I have been rewatching season one to refresh my memory. Let me know if you plan to watch.
Don’t forget, The GRAMMY’s air this Sunday on CBS. They’re planning a super performance to celebrate 50 years of hip-hop:
Finally, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that the Beyonce tickets go on sale next week, friend. Hopefully, you’ve already registered for the presale [link here] - it’s going to be a blast.
Next week I’m going to let you in on my business a little bit. Not only is this BHM, but it’s also “love month”. Next week’s newsletter will hit you right before Valentine’s Day, and I’ll be sharing a few thoughts on love & relationships as a single woman in her 30’s. Tune in for the tea, I guess lol.
Have a lovely weekend.
